Egg Drop Soup (蛋花汤)

The cornstarch slurry is the single most important step in this recipe, and the reason restaurant egg drop soup looks and tastes different from the thin, watery versions people often make at home. The starch increases the viscosity of the broth just enough that the egg ribbons stay suspended in the liquid rather than sinking and forming a dense layer at the bottom. It also gives the soup a slightly silky mouthfeel that makes it feel more substantial than plain broth.

The temperature of the broth when the eggs go in determines the texture of the ribbons. At a rolling boil, the eggs cook too quickly and become tough, breaking into small, grainy pieces. At a bare simmer, the eggs set gently into soft, feathery strands. Reducing the heat before adding the eggs is not optional.

White pepper rather than black is traditional in Chinese soups. The flavor is sharper and more aromatic, with a heat that registers in the nose rather than on the tongue. It also dissolves into the broth without leaving visible specks, keeping the soup clean-looking.

Vegetable broth works well for a vegetarian version. Tapioca starch, sweet potato starch, or arrowroot powder can replace cornstarch. For tomato egg drop soup, add one medium tomato cut into thin wedges to the broth and simmer for 3 minutes before adding the cornstarch slurry. For seaweed egg drop soup, add a small handful of dried wakame a minute before adding the eggs.

Egg drop soup is a between-courses soup, the kind that appears on the table alongside three or four other dishes to give the palate a rest and add warmth to the meal. Serve it with mapo tofu or kung pao chicken for contrast, or alongside stir-fried greens and steamed rice for a lighter dinner. On cold evenings or when someone in the house is feeling under the weather, a bowl of this with extra white pepper is exactly the right thing.

Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 2 days. The egg ribbons will soften further as they sit. Warm gently in a saucepan over medium-low heat, adding a splash of broth or water to thin the soup back to its original consistency. Do not boil. Freezing is not recommended as the egg texture becomes rubbery and the starch breaks down.

The Chinese name dan hua tang literally means "egg flower soup," referring to the flocculent appearance of cooked eggs resembling tiny blossoms. The English name "egg drop" refers to the technique of dropping or drizzling eggs into broth. This is one of the fastest soups in any cuisine and a staple comfort food across China.