Pepes Ikan

Banana leaves are not just a vessel. They function as a cooking environment. When sealed around fish and heated, the leaves create a self-contained pocket of steam that circulates the aromatics of the bumbu, the lemongrass, and the kemangi continuously around the protein. The fish cooks gently in its own moisture and in the moisture released by the herbs and spice paste, which prevents it from drying out while simultaneously infusing every surface with flavour. The waxy interior of the leaf also contributes a subtle, grassy sweetness that you would not get from aluminium foil, though foil will work in a pinch.

Scoring the fish before applying the spice paste is essential. The cuts allow the bumbu to penetrate past the skin and into the flesh, so the seasoning is not only on the surface but also threaded through the thickest part of the fillet. Without scoring, you end up with well-seasoned skin and bland meat at the centre.

Candlenuts serve as a thickener and emulsifier in the spice paste. Their high oil content binds the ground aromatics together and gives the paste a creamy body that adheres to the fish rather than pooling at the bottom of the parcel. Toasting them lightly before grinding activates their oils and rounds out their slightly bitter raw flavour.

The brief grilling at the end introduces Maillard browning on the banana leaf surface and creates a thin layer of drier, more concentrated spice paste at the edges of the parcel. This contrast, between the moist, gently steamed fish at the centre and the slightly caramelized edges, is what distinguishes a carefully made pepes from one that has only been steamed.

Fish options: Whole mackerel is traditional, but sea bass, snapper, trout, tilapia, or barramundi all work well. For fillets, use thick-cut pieces (at least 2 cm) to prevent overcooking, and reduce steaming time to 15 to 18 minutes. A whole ikan bakar-style snapper can also be prepared this way for a larger gathering.

Candlenuts unavailable: Use raw macadamia nuts (same quantity) or raw cashews. Both approximate the fat content and thickening effect. Blanched almonds are a more distant but acceptable substitute.

Kemangi unavailable: Thai basil is the closest widely available substitute, though it lacks the citrus note. Italian basil mixed with a few torn lemon balm or lemon verbena leaves gets closer to the lemon basil character. In a pinch, use Thai basil alone.

Banana leaves unavailable: Aluminium foil works functionally but does not contribute the grassy sweetness. Parchment paper is another option. If using foil, consider adding an extra kemangi leaf or two inside the parcel to compensate for the missing leaf fragrance.

Salam leaves unavailable: Regular bay leaves are the standard substitute. Use the same quantity. The flavour will be slightly different, leaning more Mediterranean, but the dish will still be very good.

Tofu or tempeh version: Replace the fish with 400 g firm tofu (pressed and sliced into 2 cm slabs) or 400 g tempeh (sliced similarly). Rub with the bumbu, wrap, and steam for 20 minutes. This is a common Sundanese variation and makes the dish fully plant-based.

Spice level adjustments: For a milder pepes, reduce the bird's eye chilies to 4 or use larger, gentler red chilies (such as Fresno or cayenne). For more heat, halve the chilies lengthwise to expose the seeds and membranes directly to the fish.

Grilled only (pepes bakar): Some cooks skip the steaming step entirely and cook the parcels directly over low charcoal for 30 to 40 minutes, turning occasionally. The result is smokier and slightly drier, with more char flavour. Keep the heat low to avoid burning the banana leaves before the fish cooks through.

Pepes ikan is a natural centrepiece for a Sundanese-style rice meal. Set the parcels on a platter in the middle of the table alongside a bowl of steamed rice, a dish of sambal terasi, and a plate of raw vegetables (lalapan) such as cucumber, cabbage wedges, and long beans. The combination of fragrant steamed fish, pungent sambal, and crisp raw vegetables is a fundamental pattern in Sundanese eating.

For a more elaborate spread, serve pepes ikan alongside nasi uduk, the coconut milk rice of Jakarta and West Java, which provides a rich, subtly sweet base that complements the spiced fish beautifully. A bowl of sayur asem (sour vegetable soup) or a simple clear broth rounds out the meal.

If you are building a fish-focused dinner that travels across Southeast Asian traditions, pair pepes ikan with pla nueng manao for a contrast between Indonesian spice-paste richness and Thai lime-forward brightness, or with turmeric fried fish to compare how turmeric behaves in a steamed versus fried preparation. Cha ca la vong, with its dill and turmeric, offers yet another approach to aromatic fish from the region.

Keep the side dishes simple. The banana leaf parcel is the event at the table, and it needs room to be appreciated.

Pepes ikan keeps well in its banana leaf wrapping in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. The spice paste flavours actually deepen slightly as they sit. To reheat, re-steam the parcels (still wrapped) for 8 to 10 minutes until heated through, or place them in a 180 C (350 F) oven for 10 to 12 minutes. If you grilled the parcels initially, a second brief pass over a hot grill pan will refresh the charred aroma.

Avoid microwaving if possible, as it can make the fish rubbery and causes the banana leaf to wilt excessively. If you must microwave, add a splash of water to the parcel, cover loosely, and heat in 30-second intervals.

The uncooked spice paste (bumbu) can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month. This makes weeknight pepes entirely practical. Simply rub the paste on fresh fish, wrap, and steam. The assembled but uncooked parcels can also be refrigerated for up to 8 hours before steaming, which makes this a good dish for entertaining.

Do not freeze the cooked parcels, as the fish texture suffers during thawing and the kemangi turns dark and loses its fragrance.