Haejangguk (Pork Bone Hangover Soup)

The long bone simmer extracts collagen, which converts to gelatin and gives the broth a rich, lip-coating body that water alone cannot achieve. This is the same principle behind seolleongtang and gamjatang, though haejangguk uses a shorter simmer and relies on doenjang for complexity rather than pure bone concentration alone.

Doenjang adds glutamic acid — the same compound responsible for the savory depth in aged cheeses and soy sauce. Combined with the inosinic acid naturally present in the pork bones, these two compounds create a synergistic umami effect that makes the soup taste far more complex than its ingredient list suggests.

Blanching the bones first is essential. The initial boil draws out blood proteins and impurities that would otherwise cloud the broth and give it an off-taste. Rinsing the bones after blanching removes any residue clinging to the surface, ensuring a clean-tasting final broth.

The vegetables are added in stages to preserve their individual textures. Cabbage and radish greens go in first because they need more time to soften. Soybean sprouts go in last because they overcook quickly and turn mushy if simmered too long.

Bones. Pork neck bones work identically to spine bones. Beef shin bones or oxtail can be used for a different but equally rich version — increase the simmering time to 2 hours. For a lighter version, use 900 g of pork belly sliced thin instead of bones, reducing the broth simmer to 30 minutes.

Siraegi (dried radish greens). If unavailable, substitute with 150 g of fresh daikon cut into thin matchsticks, or use extra napa cabbage. The texture will be different, but the soup will still be good.

Doenjang. In a pinch, use white or red miso paste, but use slightly more (4 tablespoons) to compensate for the milder flavor. The result will be gentler but still satisfying.

Gochugaru. For a non-spicy version, omit the gochugaru entirely. The soup is still deeply flavorful without it — many mild haejangguk versions exist.

Vegetarian version. Replace the pork bones with a broth made from dried shiitake mushrooms (6 to 8 large ones) and a piece of dried kelp (10 cm), simmered for 30 minutes. Increase the doenjang to 4 tablespoons. Add firm tofu cut into cubes for protein.

Haejangguk is a meal in itself. Serve it in large, deep bowls with steamed white rice on the side — or drop the rice directly into the soup, which is the more common Korean practice. A small dish of kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi) is the classic accompaniment.

For a full Korean table, pair with kimchi, a simple sigeumchi namul (spinach side dish), and a fried egg.

The soup is traditionally eaten very hot, first thing in the morning, but it is equally good as a cold-weather dinner. There are no wrong times to eat haejangguk — despite the name, you do not need a hangover to enjoy it.

Haejangguk stores exceptionally well. The broth, if anything, improves overnight as the gelatin sets and the flavors deepen. Refrigerate in a sealed container for up to 4 days.

Reheat on the stovetop over medium heat, bringing it back to a gentle boil. Add a splash of water if the broth has thickened too much in the fridge — the gelatin solidifies when cold, which is normal and a sign of a well-made broth.

The soup can be frozen for up to 2 months. Freeze the broth and vegetables together, but leave the bones out if possible to save space. The soybean sprouts will soften after freezing and reheating, but the cabbage and radish greens hold up well.