Maeuntang (매운탕)

Maeuntang is Korean spicy fish stew, and it is built on a contradiction that works: the broth is fiery and bold, loaded with gochugaru and doenjang and garlic, but the fish inside is delicate and mild, flaking apart at a touch. The heat of the broth and the sweetness of the fish meet in every spoonful, and the combination is why this is one of the most comforting soups in Korean cooking.

The broth starts with dried anchovies and Korean radish simmered in water for twenty minutes. This creates a clean, mineral-rich base with a faint sweetness from the radish. Then the seasoning paste goes in: gochugaru for heat and color, doenjang for deep fermented funk, gochujang for sweetness and body, garlic for sharpness, fish sauce for umami, and mirim for a touch of sweetness. The fish goes in next, in large pieces that hold their shape during the second twenty-minute simmer.

Any flaky white fish works. Whiting is traditional and has a delicate sweetness that pairs beautifully with the spicy broth. Cod, snapper, sea bass, and red snapper all work well too. The fish should be cut into two-inch pieces, bone-in if possible, because the bones add body to the broth. Chrysanthemum greens go in at the very end, off heat, so they wilt without overcooking. Serve with rice, kimchi, and an empty bowl for the fish bones.