Chinese Steamed Eggs (蒸蛋)

Chinese steamed eggs are one of those dishes that looks like nothing and tastes like everything. It is a savory egg custard, smooth and silky, the kind of food that soothes a sore throat, pleases a fussy child, and satisfies a tired adult who does not feel like cooking. The technique is four eggs, two cups of warm water, a little salt and chicken bouillon, and ten minutes in a steamer. The result is a custard so tender it trembles when you touch the bowl.

The ratio is the key: half a cup of warm water for every egg. The water must be warm, around 35 to 45 degrees Celsius, not hot and not cold. Hot water would scramble the eggs on contact. Cold water takes longer to steam and produces a denser texture. Warm water integrates smoothly and produces the lightest, most delicate custard.

The steaming has two phases. High heat until the water in the steamer returns to a full boil, then a drop to a gentle simmer for about eight minutes. High heat the whole time creates bubbles and craters in the surface. The simmer lets the custard set gently and evenly. When done, the custard should jiggle like gelatin when you shake the bowl, not ripple like liquid. A tablespoon of oil goes in with the eggs, which adds richness and helps the surface stay smooth. Scallions and a dash of white pepper go on at the end, and optionally a drizzle of soy sauce or oyster sauce.