Sizzling Rice Soup (鍋巴湯)

The sizzle is the point. Sizzling rice soup is built around a piece of theater: a bowl of hot broth arrives at the table, and then a plate of freshly fried rice crackers is dropped in. The crackers hit the liquid and erupt in a violent hiss that turns every head in the restaurant. The sound lasts about three seconds. The flavor lasts much longer.

The soup underneath the spectacle is a clean, well-made chicken broth loaded with shrimp, sliced chicken breast, napa cabbage, bok choy, mushrooms, and snow peas. The proteins are marinated briefly with cornstarch, which gives them the silky texture of Chinese restaurant cooking. The vegetables go in at the last moment so they stay crisp and bright. A few drops of sesame oil and white pepper finish the broth.

The rice crackers are the soul of the dish. Traditionally they are guoba, the crust of rice that forms at the bottom of a clay pot or rice cooker, dried until brittle and then deep-fried until they puff and turn golden. You can make them from freshly cooked rice pressed flat and dried in the sun or a low oven, or you can buy them pre-made. Either way, they must be fried immediately before serving. Cold crackers do not sizzle. The broth must be boiling hot. The timing is everything. Drop, sizzle, eat.