Dwaeji Bulgogi (돼지불고기)

Dwaeji bulgogi is the spicy pork counterpart to the more famous beef bulgogi, and in many Korean homes and barbecue restaurants it is actually the more popular of the two. The key difference is gochujang. Beef bulgogi is marinated in soy sauce and sugar with no chili. Pork bulgogi is marinated in gochujang and gochugaru, which gives it a sweet, fermented, and distinctly spicy character that makes it one of the most craveable dishes in Korean cooking.

The marinade is built on crushed Korean pear, which provides enzymes that tenderize the meat and a natural sweetness that balances the heat of the gochujang. Onion puree, garlic, and ginger add aromatics. Soy sauce provides salt, sugar and rice syrup add sweetness that caramelizes during cooking, and sesame oil adds nuttiness. The pork marinates for at least thirty minutes, though overnight produces the deepest flavor.

Pork belly is the traditional cut, thinly sliced so the fat renders quickly during cooking and the edges crisp. Pork shoulder or loin work for leaner versions. The pork grills or pan-fries over medium-high heat, hot enough to get color but not so hot that the sugars in the marinade burn. The traditional way to eat it is to wrap a piece of pork in a lettuce leaf with a dab of ssamjang, a slice of raw garlic, and a green chili. The cool, crisp lettuce against the hot, spicy, fatty pork is one of the great textural contrasts in Korean food.